What Is The Cause Of Waves In Water?

On a calm day, we notice very few waves, standing by the side of a body of water. On a stormy or windy day, there are many waves. The wind is apparently the cause of waves. Through these waves, some form of energy is moved from one place to another. Some form of energy or force starts a wave, the force is provided by the wind.

The movement of waves, one after the other, makes the water appear moving forward. In actual a floating piece of wood does not move forward; however, the waves seem to move forward. The piece of wood will simply show a bob up and down movement with water particles. A rope can send a kind of wave along rope can send a kind of wave along the rope.

The movement passes along the rope, but not the particles of rope. The bottom of water waved striking the ground some distance from the beach slows down due to friction. The top of the wave keeps going, toppling over, forms a ‘breaker’. The. the energy that formed the wave is lost against the- shoreline. Standing along the beach we find that the waves have energy. The water particles of waves move in a circular path, up and forward being pushed by the wind. The down and backward movement is due to gravity and lowers to the common level. The up and down movements carry the wave along. The wavelength is measured from crest to crest. The ‘troughs are low points.